Comfortable Flight into the Lebanese War Zone by the Sea

As conflict rages once again in Lebanon, the experience of traveling to this war-torn region becomes a poignant reminder of the beauty and turmoil that coexist in this small but significant Mediterranean country. The juxtaposition of flying over a city rich in history and culture against a backdrop of destruction adds layers of complexity to the journey. This article explores the realities of flying into a region marked by conflict and the emotions that accompany such travel.

Journey to Beirut: A Snapshot of War

My last departure from Beirut airport was in mid-October 2024, during a time of intense military action. Israeli forces were engaged in a ground invasion of southern Lebanon, targeting Hezbollah fighters entrenched in the area. The southern suburbs of Beirut suffered significant damage, with airstrikes reducing entire blocks to rubble. The once-vibrant city was shrouded in fear and uncertainty.

Despite the chaos surrounding it, the airport remained operational, a testament to its resilience. However, only Middle East Airlines (MEA) was providing flights to European destinations, and these were infrequent. My flight to Rome, where I reside, was crammed with Lebanese citizens and foreign nationals alike, all seeking an escape from the violence. As we ascended into the sky at dawn, I caught sight of smoke billowing from buildings struck by missiles—targets identified by the Israeli military.

The Emotional Toll of Conflict

Seated beside a young Lebanese woman, I witnessed a powerful moment as she gazed out the window, tears streaming down her cheeks. "My beautiful city is being destroyed," she lamented, her sorrow palpable. In that moment, we were connected by shared humanity, as she held my hand tightly, seeking comfort amidst the devastation.

Fast forward a year and a half, I found myself once again en route to Beirut, this time to cover a conflict that involved the remnants of Hezbollah, historically an Iranian ally, facing off against the formidable Israeli military. As Israeli forces advanced towards Lebanon’s Litani River, the tension escalated. The situation was further complicated by retaliatory rocket fire from Hezbollah, which had caught the attention of both Israeli and U.S. military operations.

Preparing for Departure

At Rome’s Leonardo Da Vinci airport, I prepared for my flight, checking in a heavy bag that landed with a thud on the conveyor belt. When the airline agent inquired about its weight, I replied, "Body armor—I am a journalist." His response was pragmatic: "Then you will want to sit in a window seat on the right side of the plane," he advised, explaining that it would provide a better view of any war damage upon landing.

The flight was notably sparse, with only about 20% of the seats occupied. Among the passengers, I spotted two priests, an elderly woman with her small dog, and various Lebanese men dressed sharply. There were also several individuals who resembled American tourists, yet their true identities were ambiguous—could they be military personnel or diplomats?

The Intriguing Economics of Air Travel in Conflict

We boarded a relatively new Airbus A321neo, a pristine aircraft with an expansive first-class section. This raised questions about how the national airline of a country grappling with economic turmoil could afford such a modern airplane. MEA is not merely a private company but is owned by the Bank of Lebanon, an unusual scenario where a central bank manages both monetary policy and air travel logistics.

The atmosphere on board was subdued. I attempted to engage one of the priests in conversation, but he seemed disinterested. The flight attendants appeared fatigued, likely due to the stress of working in a country experiencing renewed conflict. Despite the somber mood, they served a surprisingly good meal, which included three desserts: cake, chocolate, and dates.

Approaching Beirut: Tension in the Air

As we neared Beirut, apprehension filled the cabin. Everyone strained to catch glimpses of the city below, hoping to spot any signs of destruction—burning buildings or the presence of Israeli warplanes. Personally, I felt a knot of anxiety, even though I was aware that Israel had agreed not to target the civilian airport during the ongoing conflict.

Upon landing in South Beirut, which is known as a Hezbollah stronghold, I observed that the area appeared relatively normal—at least on the surface. This fleeting sense of calm was shattered moments later. As I exited the plane and met my driver, Hassan, a sudden blast resonated nearby, followed by a plume of black smoke rising ominously from an Israeli missile strike just a kilometer away.

Experiencing the War Zone

Our departure from the airport was urgent; Hassan hurriedly ushered me into his aging white Mercedes as we navigated the streets of South Beirut, trying to escape the immediate danger. I was reminded that this was not just a beautiful coastal city but also a complex and perilous war zone, nestled just a two-hour flight from my home in Rome.

The reality of war in Lebanon is multi-faceted. Below the surface, a rich culture thrives, yet it is constantly threatened by external and internal conflicts. Understanding this duality is essential for anyone seeking to engage with the region, whether as a journalist, humanitarian, or traveler.

The Duality of Beirut: Beauty Amidst Destruction

Lebanon's capital is characterized by its vibrant history, stunning architecture, and diverse population. The stark contrasts between the bustling markets and the scars of war paint a complex picture. Visitors often find themselves grappling with the following:

• The resilience of the Lebanese people, who continue to rebuild and redefine their identity.
• The rich culinary traditions that reflect the country's diverse cultural influences.
• The historical landmarks that tell stories of both glory and suffering.
• The arts scene, which flourishes despite the challenges, showcasing local talent and creativity.
• The ongoing socio-political struggles that shape the current landscape.

Conclusion: The Journey Continues

Traveling to Lebanon offers a unique opportunity to witness a country that embodies both beauty and conflict. As I navigate this complex environment, I remain committed to sharing the stories of those who live in the shadows of war, highlighting their resilience and hope for a better future. Each journey into Beirut serves not only as a passage through geography but also as a profound exploration of humanity.